Watch the youtube video here: The SoftWild Guide To Sumba
If you ever want to escape café crowds or the hustle and bustle of city life, Sumba is the kind of place for you. Wide ocean views, traditional villages, hidden waterfalls, rice terraces, tiny horses that almost look like ponies but aren’t, and lush jungle. We stayed at Lelewatu, which
was one of the better options, I'd place behind Nihi as the top resort option.
Here’s what we did, what you should know, and why Sumba is its own kind of magical.
Where We Stayed: Lelewatu Resort
Lelewatu Resort Sumba is a cliff-edge luxury resort on the southern coast, set above rolling waves and rugged shoreline. It combines traditional Sumbanese aesthetic (villas built with local materials, thatch etc.) with upscale touches. Things you should remember if you come to Sumba, it is still quite untouched so when I say luxury no it’s not comparable to the Four Seasons, it’s luxury for a place with tourism that just started to boom. The rooms are nice and the food is good, neither are the best BUT it is one of the best options. I have to say this though: their Sop Buntut which is traditional oxtail stew might make me fly back. You can find a room here for about $70- 90 per night.
Other places I would check out:
Bobocabin - around $60 per night
Umarato Villa - around $180 per night
ALAMAYA - around $300 per night
The Sanubari - around $400 per night
What We Did & Loved
Here are the spots we explored, what they’re like, and some tips:
Praijing Village
Traditional Sumbanese village with Uma Bokulu houses (these big traditional houses) and local life. Great for culture, photography, learning. Quiet, shaded, modest. A mix of architecture, ritual, locals. Good place to slow down.
Le Peopeou / Lapopu Waterfall
This was amazingggg! A huge waterfall with a scenic drive through an untouched valley. Beautiful for swimming or just being in fresh water. So fresh to swim in and such a romantic spot, there was no one there when we went and the local guide says it doesn't get so busy ever.
Weikilo Rice Fields
This was also so nice, it has a waterfall in the middle with a very long skinny tree that our local guide was brave enough to climb and jump off of. We saw a few buffalo here and is a place we highly recommend.
Beach Horse Riding
You ride along the sand down a huge beach. To be honest the beach was stunning but the riding was ok, the horses are very small and we decided to get off after 10 minutes because we would have rather walked them.
Cashew Farm + Café Talasi Estate at Weetabula
This is a non-gmo cashew farm and a great place to go have a coffee, walk around, and drink their homemade cashewmilk!
What Worked & What to Keep in Mind
Nature > Nightlife. If you love nature, solitude, unspoilt scenery, it’s lush. If you want a lot of cafés, bars, buzzing evening energy, this is not that place. Expect dinner at resorts or small local warung-type spots; evenings quiet.
Transport & timing matter. Times to travel between villages, waterfalls etc. can be long because of roads. Plan ample time. For early mornings (for waterfalls, rice fields) especially.
Weather & season. Dry vs rainy seasons change what’s possible/drivable, water volume in falls, how green the rice fields are. Mosquitoes and sun protection are real.
Comfort vs authenticity trade-off.* Resorts like Lelewatu give comfort. But the charm of Sumba is often in imperfect roads, shifting weather, simple food. Embrace both sides.
If I Go Back What I'd Do Differently
Arrive earlier in the day or stay longer in Talasi so you can do the full farm + tasting tour, not just the café bit.
Spend more dawn hours in the rice fields, light is magical.
Try different waterfalls or hidden pools off beaten track if you can hire a local guide (they know secret ones).
Maybe do a beach horse ride when tide is optimal, and pick horses more able (ask about size / reliability).
Final Thoughts
Sumba isn’t about being trendy or busy. It’s about breathing deeper, slowing steps, getting salt air, discovering calm villages, and letting nature’s raw beauty sink in. If that’s your vibe, this trip (especially staying at Lelewatu + exploring places like Talasi) delivers so much. Sumba is the definition of SoftWild. Soft by so much natural beauty and Wild with nature.
